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HERBIE'S SPICE DISCOVERY TOUR


Spice Discovery Tour to India
Proposed Dates 10th January - 24th January 2009

HOMES OF THE WORLD’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE RANGE OF CULINARY SPICES




Read all the details of our 2009 tour here :

2009 Tour

Comments from previous tour members:

  • I particularly enjoyed the smaller towns. Loved the company in the group … and all the laughing!
  • Meals were stupendous - the local guide gets 10 out of 10!
  • Particularly enjoyed the spices, food and the people - Indians are wonderful!
  • The trip was just excellent - my thanks and compliments. The food was interesting, challenging, amazing … and not one person got a tummy problem in the whole trip!
  • The tour exceeded our expectations. We visited places and met people that we would never have met travelling alone. We also appreciated not being rushed, and stopping to see interesting happenings.
  • I really loved the trip - seeing India with luxury thrown in, learning so much about spices, food and culture. And the guide was excellent!
  • A thoroughly enjoyable cultural, business and botanical learning experience, with a fun group and a great, knowledgable tour leader.
  • Loved the trip and everything about it. Interesting activities - certainly not the usual tourist thing!




Herbie's Spice Discovery Tour to southern India from 22nd January to 6th February 2001 was a great success and we thought it would only be fair to share a selection of some the highlights we all enjoyed on the tour. Recipes mentioned may be accessed by clicking on the link shown, you may also wish to click on an image for a larger view.

Photos


Upon our arrival in Cochin we went on a late afternoon water cruise, passing by the historic fishing nets that were introduced by the Chinese many centuries ago. Cochin was actually named after Cochin in China, the place many of the early traders came from, however the Indians now tend to refer to Cochin as Kochi.

The next day we went around to Fort Cochin by road. Some of our group members had a turn at raising these ancient, counter-balanced nets. Judging by their catch we did suggest they keep their day jobs back in Australia.

In the Ernakulam markets in Cochin little spice traders sell a selection of the most commonly used spices such as cinnamon, ginger, pepper, cumin and coriander.

A pile of beautifully intact blade mace is enough to make any gourmet's mouth water. We rarely see blades as large as this because they are very delicate and invariably get broken in transit.

A highlight of the tour was having a cooking demonstration in a typical Keralan home. We were indeed privileged to receive such generous hospitality and to be introduced to the way many dishes are prepared at home. We also had some laughs when Belinda learnt to grate coconut.
  • View all the wonderful recipes from India

  • This buttercurd curry looks fantastic, smells orgasmic and is delicious poured over rice in the same manner as sambar or rasam.
  • View Buttercurd Curry recipe

  • When we asked how they achieved such beautifully shredded cabbage, we were treated to a cabbage shredding demonstration in which the housewife simply made many quick deft cuts, criss-crossing the surface and turning the cabbage as she worked around it. Rolf decided to stay with his food processor.
  • View 'Kerala helf-fried cabbage' recipe

  • This mixed vegetable curry is called 'avial' and is a wonderful accompaniment to any south Indian repast.
  • View Avial recipe

  • A feature of the Alleppey waterways south of Cochin is the myriad of canals.

    Coconut Lagoon resort is located among these canals, one even arrives at reception in a charming barge.

    True pepper from the Piper nigrum vine is native to the south of India. Plump, fully-formed but as yet unripe peppercorns hang on vines in 'spice gardens' on the way to Munnar.

    Green peppercorns, placed out in the sunshine on woven mats until black and dry were a common sight as we wound our way up from the coast to the hill station of Munnar some 1,300 metres above sea level.

    As we drove into Munnar we were privileged to witness a traditional and colourful ceremony. Young women of marriageable age plant sprouting seeds in a basket about 6 weeks beforehand. The vigour of each woman's sprouts is an indication of the future fertility and prosperity of her family. These baskets are taken to the temple for blessing.

    In Tamil Nadu, transport in the back of a truck is actually preferred to bus. Here you can see the manicured Munnar tea plantations in the background.

    In Munnar, as in many parts of India, flowers are an important element in devotional activities. On the way to the temple, one will see many flower sellers such as these with meticulously hand crafted garlands of aromatic blooms on display.

    Fresh fruits and vegetables (and a reasonable selection of spices) are always available in the local markets.


    After the teeming activity of Munnar it was relaxing to stop for lunch among tea plantations, where we could take in panoramic scenery and appreciate the comfortable mountain air.

    At the Indian Spices Board's research station in Myladumpara we were shown how trial plantings of vanilla orchid vines are grown. This photo shows the tedious process of hand pollination (necessary because there are no natural pollinators for the vanilla flower in India).

    Tiny flowers form at the base of cardamom plants in racemes that eventually bear the pea-green aromatic fruits that contain one of our favourite spices…cardamom seeds.



    After staying overnight on the Carmelia cardamom and tea plantation we ventured forth to Kumily and the Spice Village resort. Here our cabins were set among pepper vines, tamarind trees and other spices. Just a few minutes drive away is the Periyar wildlife park, a sanctuary where if one is lucky an elephant or two may be seen in the distance. This day we were inordinately lucky, for not only did we see a small herd of 10 elephants close-up, we were also treated to seeing a young male stirring up a little mud pool to spray on himself and then have a swim before going through the whole process once again.

    And on the subject of elephants, we couldn't resist taking this photo of Jean being blessed by an elephant in the Hindu temple in Madurai.

    Like all good things, the tour came to an end and concluded with our group of smiling faces saying farewell in the foyer of the Taj Connemara hotel before heading off home. Pictured from left to right are: Ian (aka Herbie), Herbie's better half - Liz, Warren, Leonie, Amy, Belinda, Rachael, Jean, Gillian, Rolf, our fantastic guide (in our opinion the best in India) Johnson and our tour manager Manoj (who looked after us brilliantly, making sure all our transport, accommodation and connections went off without a hitch).

    Should you be interested in joining us on a Spice Discovery Tour, please e-mail your expression of interest.

    Recipes from India


    One of the more delightful aspects of the Spice Tour was not only enjoying the delicious Indian meals while travelling, but also collecting the recipes so we could make them when we arrived back home. Here is a selection of our favourite dishes which our intrepid group managed to connive, wheedle and beg from our various hosts.

    MASALA FOR "STUPID FISH" - from Taj Malabar Cochin
    (Pearl Spot Fish buries its head in the sand and can be caught by the tail.)


    2 onions, chopped
    2 tomatoes, peeled and diced
    1 teaspoon brown mustard seed
    20 fresh curry leaves
    2 teaspoons julienne strips fresh ginger
    2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
    2 teaspoons ground coriander seed
    2 teaspoons turmeric powder
    4 pieces kokum soaked in ½ cup warm water
    2 Tablespoons coconut oil - up to ½ cup
    salt to taste (2 teaspoons)
    6 fillets Pearl Spot fish (or similar)

    Heat coconut oil and fry onions until brown. Add mustard, curry leaves, ginger and garlic and fry a little. Add spices, kokum water, tomatoes and simmer on low heat until reduced - about 30 minutes. NB Mustard seeds and spices may be fried separately and then added.
    Fry fillets of fish, drain and serve with masala gravy.

    FISH CURRY - from Taj Malabar, Cochin
    (Serves 2-4) - collected by Rolf


    4 pieces fish
    8 small onions
    4 green chillies
    4 cloves garlic
    ½ teaspoon turmeric
    ½ teaspoon chilli powder
    ½ teaspoon brown mustard seed
    4 pieces kokum
    ½ teaspoon fenugreek
    ½ fresh coconut, grated
    ½ teaspoon aniseed
    2 curry leaves
    2 teaspoons oil
    salt to taste


    Cut the fish into small pieces. Slice the onion and green chillies. Grind the coconut to a smooth paste with aniseed and garlic. Heat the oil and add mustard seeds. When it crackles, add the fenugreek, onion and green chillies. Fry til onion is lightly brown. Add kokum and one cup water. Boil for a few minutes. Add the fish and salt, cook til the fish is done. Mix ground coconut with 1 cup water and add to the curry . Add curry leaves. Simmer and remove from the fire. Serve on hot rice.

    PRAWN MOILY - from Taj Malabar Cochin
    (Serves 2)


    16 medium prawns
    100g onions sliced
    20g sliced green chilli
    20g julienned fresh ginger
    2 sprigs curry leaves (20-30 leaves)
    2 cloves garlic in julienne strips
    2 tomatoes, diced
    200ml thick coconut milk
    ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
    salt to taste
    50ml coconut oil

    Marinate the cleaned prawns in turmeric powder and salt. Set aside for 10 minutes. Heat coconut oil, add sliced onions, ginger, garlic, green chilli, tomatoes and curry leaves, and saute for 2 minutes. Add turmeric and saute for a further 30 seconds. Add coconut milk, stirring constantly. Add the prawns and simmer until cooked. Check seasoning, and garnish with fried curry leaves. Serve with Idiappam or Appam.

    PRAWN VADA MASALA - from chef Octavio at Coconut Lagoon
    Collected by Belinda

    500 grams shelled and chopped green prawns
    10 grams dried chilli flakes
    20 grams chopped shallots
    ½ teaspoon chilli powder
    2 cloves finely chopped garlic
    100 grams sliced onions
    10 grams sliced green chilli
    15 grams julienne ginger
    5 grams fenugreek seeds
    1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
    250 grams tomatoes, sliced
    20 curry leaves plus extra for garnish

    Crush half the chilli flakes, 6 curry leaves and shallots and mix with chopped prawns. Add salt and chilli powder, then form into balls or round flat shapes and fry. Heat oil, add fenugreek, mustard seeds and the remaining chilli flakes and cook until seeds pop. Saute chopped garlic, green chilli, ginger and onions. When lightly brown add sliced tomatoes, curry leaves and salt to taste. Cook until tomatoes have softened, and serve the masala over the prawn cakes. Garnish with fried curry leaves.

    AVIAL (Mixed Vegetable Curry)
    As demonstrated in private home in Cochin


    500g mixed vegetables (brinjal, pumpkin, cucumber, string beans, eggplant, yam, potato, drumstick, snake gourd etc as available) cut into long thick slices
    ¼ cup onions sliced into big pieces
    4 green chillies, split lengthwise
    6-10 curry leaves
    ½ teaspoon turmeric and salt to taste
    ½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
    3 cloves garlic
    2 cups fresh coconut grated (or 2 cup desiccated coconut soaked in water for 5 minutes then squeezed to remove water)
    ½ cup plain yoghurt
    1 Tablespoon coconut oil

    Place the vegetables, onions, chillies and curry leaves in a saucepan with ½ cup water and the turmeric and salt. Steam gently over low heat until vegetables are almost cooked. Puree the cumin, garlic and coconut in a blender to a rough paste, then add yoghurt. Add the coconut paste to the vegetables and continue to cook until done. Add the coconut oil before serving for flavour.

    KERALA HALF-FRIED CABBAGE
    As demonstrated in a private home in Cochin


    2 cups coconut, finely shredded
    1 cup fresh grated coconut
    1 fresh green chilli, finely chopped
    ½ teaspoon turmeric
    1 teaspoon salt
    4 Tablespoons coconut oil
    2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
    20-30 fresh curry leaves

    Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan and add the cabbage, coconut, salt, chilli and coconut. Stir-fry for 5-10 minutes over medium heat - it's not necessary to stir all the time. When the cabbage is cooked, heat the remaining oil in a small pan. When it's hot, add the mustard and curry leaves and fry quickly, then add to the vegetables and serve.

    KERALAN OKRA
    As demonstrated in a private home in Cochin


    2 cups okra, sliced diagonally into slivers
    1 large onion, sliced
    1-2 long green chillies, sliced into slivers
    2 Tablespoons coconut oil
    2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
    ½ teaspoon turmeric
    15-20 curry leaves

    Heat the oil and fry mustard seeds, turmeric and curry leaves. After one minute, add okra, onions and chillies and cook.

    BUTTERCURD CURRY
    As demonstrated in a private home in Cochin


    1 ltr buttermilk
    500ml coconut milk
    1 teaspoon ground cumin
    ½ teaspoon turmeric
    1 fresh green chilli
    2-3 cloves garlic, crushed or chopped
    2 Tablespoons coconut oil
    1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
    ½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
    15 curry leaves
    3 whole dried red chillies

    Combine the buttermilk and coconut milk in a saucepan with the cumin, turmeric, green chilli and garlic. Bring to a gentle simmer. In a small pan, heat the coconut oil and when hot, add the mustard seeds, fenugreek, curry leaves and chillies. Fry quickly until seeds pop, then add to curd curry. Serve poured over rice like rasam.

    MEEN VARUVAL (FRIED FISH)
    From Taj Connemara, Madras


    800g fish fillets or cutlets
    40ml lemon juice
    2 teaspoons ginger/garlic paste
    3 teaspoons turmeric
    350ml oil

    Spice Mixture:
    2 Tablespoons chilli powder
    150g rice flour
    40g besan flour (gram flour)
    salt to taste

    Marinate the fish in lemon, ginger/garlic paste, turmeric and salt. Stand for 30 minutes. Mix all the flour together with chilli powder and salt. Dust the fish, and shallow fry on a griddle. Serve with fried curry leaves.

    KOZHI MELAGU (BLACK PEPPER CHICKEN)
    From Taj Connemara, Madras

    Chicken Supreme in black pepper typically cooked in Chettinad style

    800g chicken breast, cubed
    200g onion, chopped
    150g tomato, chopped
    1 teaspoon fennel seeds
    1 teaspoon cumin seeds
    4 teaspoons mild chilli powder
    2 teaspoons turmeric
    6 teaspoons coriander seed ground
    8 teaspoons ground black pepper
    3 teaspoons garam masala
    60ml oil
    3 teaspoons ginger/garlic paste
    chopped coriander leaves to garnish

    Heat oil in a cast iron wok (kadai), add the fennel and cumin, and fry until they crackle. Add chopped onions and fry until golden brown. Add ginger/garlic paste and cook till the raw flavour has gone. Add turmeric, chilli, coriander and pepper and cook. For 30 seconds, then stir in chicken and cook until done. Add the garam masala and serve hot garnished with chopped coriander leaves.



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